The author recounts their pilgrimage experiences in Kōyasan, Japan, inspired by Kūkai's historical routes. Their journey began with an elaborate commute to the base of the Chōishi-michi trail at the Jison-in temple. This 12-mile trail is marked by stone gorintō every 109 meters, guiding pilgrims towards the Danjo Garan temple. Earlier, the author got lost on the Nyonin-michi pilgrimage route, accidentally trespassing near Kōbō Daishi’s Mausoleum. They then completed the Chōishi-michi hike, appreciating the forest's "cathedral effect" and the blend of the ancient trail with modern life. They refueled with convenience store snacks, pondering briefly on becoming a monk, but ultimately remained secular. Reaching the Daimon gate, the author celebrated their return to Kōyasan and enjoyed a relaxing bath at their guesthouse. They then explored charcoal appreciation with the guesthouse owner, who debunked the “tofu person” stereotype. Although tired, they later ventured into the Okunoin Cemetery at night, noting the lanterns and eerie ambiance. The author finished their pilgrimage with a sushi dinner, bonding with locals over baseball.
kottke.org
kottke.org
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