What I learned about the future of restaurants from Rene Redzepi’s chef conference

The MAD Symposium, a nonprofit event, brought together chefs, bartenders, farmers, and food producers to discuss the future of the restaurant industry. The event featured big-name chefs like Thomas Keller and José Andrés, but the most impactful talks came from lesser-known individuals working to create a better industry. The symposium, started by chef René Redzepi, aims to inspire important conversations about the industry's challenges. The event returned after a seven-year hiatus, during which COVID-19 ravaged the restaurant business, with a big question: Is it possible to build to last in this industry? The industry faces challenges including rising costs, wage pressures, inflation, and disruptions caused by natural disasters and political leadership. Independent restaurants are facing tough times, and there's a sense that maybe it's time for top chefs to step aside. The event's theme of "legacy" was somewhat missed by speakers, including Thomas Keller, who ignored recent criticism of his behavior towards a restaurant critic. However, talks on the second day focused on the future, with speakers like Asma Khan and Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard. The most impactful talks came from those working to create a better industry, including four young Icelandic fishing guides who presented a compelling argument against sea-farmed salmon. The guides' story highlighted the importance of preserving wild salmon population and the legacy of their families' fishing tradition.