A Mushroom-Based Condiment That Captures the Essence of Filipino Cuisine

Woldy Reyes' debut cookbook, "In the Kusina," features a vegetarian bagoong, a complex plant-based alternative to the traditional fermented seafood paste. Traditional Filipino cuisine often relies on bagoong for its umami flavor, a characteristic difficult to replicate without seafood. Reyes's recipe uses porcini powder, red miso, tamari, and a sweetener to achieve a similar depth of flavor. While not identical to shrimp bagoong, the miso mushroom version captures its intensity and layered taste profile. The recipe highlights Filipino flavors, balancing sour, salty, sweet, and spicy elements. Reyes uses his bagoong in dishes like a cauliflower Bicol Express and a miso-coconut pancit. The versatile bagoong can be stored and used in various culinary applications. The cookbook includes both the miso mushroom bagoong recipe and a miso coconut pancit recipe showcasing its use. The provided recipes detail step-by-step instructions for creating both the bagoong and a delicious noodle dish using it.