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Sebb’s, Glasgow G1: ‘A delicious bombardment of continents, cuisines and cultural trickledowns’ – restaurant review
Little bits of loveliness from Sauchiehall Street to the Silk Road, from a chef who wants to deliver maximum joy
Sebb’s is a basement restaurant on Miller Street in Glasgow with a door that’s perilously easy to miss, even though it’s bright red. The first time I tried to find it, I waltzed past and almost ended up in the pants department of TK Maxx. I was luckier the second time around, and soon found myself descending a set of stairs into a room with the distinct vibe of a beatnik diner inside a bowling alley: there’s no natural light, there are booths that are perfect for conspiring in, a DJ playing psychedelic rock and food served in brown paper bags. The 13th Floor Elevators at noon on a Thursday?! Absolutely – as well as the globally ranging delights of sobrassada and ancho honey pitta, tandoori pork belly with tamarind chutney, barbecued squid with zhoug and preserved lemon aïoli, and trout ceviche with habanero, mango and tequila. It’s as if the Big Lebowski took up cooking.
Sebb’s opened in late 2024, and just over a year later, head chef Danny Carruthers’ food had already snagged the place a Michelin bib gourmand – to my mind by far the most interesting part of the whole tyre company’s advertising hoopla. Bibs are designed to reward places just like Sebb’s: odd, informal, intriguing – the type of place where you can pop out to for lunch without needing four spare hours, a booking months in advance and a decorative Patek Philippe watch on your wrist.